Gudetama - Sunny-side Up Crochet Pattern

 
So a lot of you liked my pattern for Gudetama under Bacon Blanket.  And some of you even made your own super cute versions like this one from Kiploca:

Kiploca Instagram

Love it!  I'm now a fully converted fan of Gudetama and no longer think he's weird.  In fact, I love him that much I put a load of Eggy stuff on my X'mas list.  Including this comic with lots of cute pics of Gudetama explaining his philosophy on life as a lazy egg.

It has inspired me to start a project.  I'm going to do Gudetama crochet patterns for as many of these pictures as I can.  But since I have a full-time job I shall do this in the way Gudetama would have done it...  Lazily, slowly and possibly never actually finishing.  I have done the easier one though - Gudetama Sunny-side Up!  Enjoy!

Gudetama Sunny-side Up Crochet Pattern

Side view of Eggy-tama (what my daughter calls him)

What you’ll need:

You can use any type of yarn you like since slight variation in size won’t matter.  I used a very soft acrylic yarn similar to a 4ply. The yarn manufacturer's hook size recommendation is 3.5 but I used a 2.5mm hook for a tighter finish.  I always use a smaller hook than recommended for amigurumis to make my work tighter to better keep in the filling.  

Here’s what I worked with:

• -          Yellow and white yarn (gauge 22sts x 28rows for 10cm swatch)  

• -          2.5mm crochet hook; 
• -          Black and white felt;
• -          Tapestry needle;
• -          Polyester filling; and

• -         Permanent black marker.

Abbreviations:

sc                     single crochet

sc inc               single crochet increase, i.e. work 2 single crochets into the same stitch

dc                    double crochet

tc                     triple crochet

tc inc               triple crochet increase, i.e. work 2 triple crochets into the same stitch

st                     stitche(s)

( )                     numbers in brackets denote total stitches for that row

*                      when a stitch pattern is repeated several times, it is enclosed by asterisks.  E.g. *2sc, sc dec* x2 - means single crochet twice, decrease, single crochet twice, decrease.

The yolk and egg white are worked in joined rounds, so remember to start the pieces with a ch st at the beginning of every row AND end each row by joining the ends with a sl st.

Yolk: (in yellow)

R1: Magic ring, 5sc into ring, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (5) [If you find magic ring difficult or a hassle to do, just make a slip knot and ch2] 

R2: *sc inc* x5 (10)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x5 (15)

R4: 15sc. End, leaving long yarn tail for sewing yolk onto egg white.

Egg White: (in white)

R1: Magic ring, 6sc into ring, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (6) [If you find magic ring difficult or a hassle to do, just make a slip knot and ch2] 

R2: *sc inc* x6 (12)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)

R5: *3sc, sc inc* x6 (30)

R6: [irregular egg white edging] 2sc, dc, tc, tc inc, tc, dc, 2sc, sc inc, 3sc, dc, tc inc, 2tc, dc, sc, sc inc, 3dc, sc, sc inc, dc, 3tc, dc (35). Eng, weave in yarn tail.  

Making up: 

Sew yolk onto egg white using yarn tail.  Stuff yolk with a little bit of polyester filling. 

Eyes and mouth: 

Using black felt, cut two tiny, long ovals for Gudetama's eyes. 

Using white felt cut a rough semi-circle oval and using black permanent marker, rim edge in black.  Glue onto yolk. 

Tip: You may find cutting such small bits of felt difficult.  It will help to use a super sharp pair of scissors, e.g. sharp nail scissors for very well.  If it's still too difficult, try dabbing clear nail varnish onto the felt.  This stiffens the felt and allows better control.  

Itadakimasu!

Weird or Cute Gudetama?

I'm undecided.  Still not absolutely sure if I'm more disturbed or charmed by the idea of a depressed egg yolk as one of Sanrio's latest characters.

If you haven't encountered him before, Gudetama (roughly translates to 'Lazy Egg') is a depressed egg yolk.  He's yummy and full of nutrients but he thinks life as an egg is futile, because it's inevitable that he'll end up being someone's dinner.  So he lazes around in a permanent state of pathetic 'meh'.

Now I'm a MASSIVE Sanrio fan. I grew up with countless Hello Kitties around me so I've always connected Sanrio to child-friendly, OTT cute designs.  Picture my 'WTF' face therefore when I watched a Gudetama cartoon, where an egg yolk with buttocks complains of having a shell stuck in his arse and a man in an egg yolk leotard costume dances a routine to a theme tune sung by kids (don't believe me? Watch it yourself!).

Sightly violated was my first reaction.  Morbid fascination my second.  Then it was an appreciation that Gudetama is "Kimokawaii", the Japanese Gross-Cute trend (usually skulls or severed body parts with a cute face). Now?  I'm not quite sure.  I did think 'OMG cute!' when I saw a plushie of Gudetama lying on his egg white trying to sleep with a piece of bacon as his blanket.  But I'm not sure I've gotten over the man in the yellow leotard yet...

While you make up your mind, here's an amigurumi pattern to make Gudetama-under-bacon which is definitely more cute than gross.  Enjoy!

Gudetama under Bacon Blanket

What you’ll need:

You can use any type of yarn you like since slight variation in size won’t matter.  I used a very soft acrylic yarn similar to a 4ply. The yarn manufacturer's hook size recommendation is 3.5 but I used a 2.5mm hook for a tighter finish.  I always use a smaller hook than recommended for amigurumis to make my work tighter to better keep in the filling.  

Here’s what I worked with:

• -          Yellow, white and dull red yarn (gauge 22sts x 28rows for 10cm swatch)  

• -          2.5mm crochet hook; 
• -          Black and white felt;
• -          Tapestry needle;
• -          Polyester filling; and

• -         Permanent black marker.

Abbreviations:

ch                    chain stitch

sl st                  slip stitch

sc                     single crochet

sc inc               single crochet increase, i.e. work 2 single crochets into the same stitch

sc dec              single crochet decrease, i.e. crochet 2 stitches together

st                     stitche(s)

( )                     numbers in brackets denote total stitches for that row

*                      when a stitch pattern is repeated several times, it is enclosed by asterisks.  E.g. *2sc, sc dec* x2 - means single crochet twice, decrease, single crochet twice, decrease.

The body, legs and egg white are worked in joined rounds, so remember to start those pieces with a ch st at the beginning of every row AND end each row by joining the ends with a sl st.

Body: (in yellow)

R1: Magic ring, 5sc into ring, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (5) [If you find magic ring difficult or a hassle to do, just make a slip knot and ch2] 

R2: *sc inc* x5 (10)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x5 (15)

R4: *2sc, sc inc* x5 (20)

R5: *3sc, sc inc* x5 (25) 

R6 to R11: 25sc (25)

R12: *3sc, sc dec* x5 (20)

R13: *2sc, sc dec* x5 (15)

[stuff yolk with polyester filling at this point before the hole closes up]

R14: *sc, sc dec* x5 (10)

R15: *sc dec* x5 (5), end and leave a long yarn tail for sewing the 'bum'. See vid tutorial below:

Arms x2: (in yellow)

R1: 6ch (6)

R2: Starting from 2nd chain from hook 5 sl sts, end and leave a long yarn tail to sew arms to body.

Legs x2: (in yellow)

R1: Magic ring, 4sc into ring, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (4)

R2: 4sc (4), end and leave a long yarn tail to sew legs to body. 

Bacon: (in red)

R1: 17ch (17)

R2: Starting from 2nd chain from hook, 16sc, chain 1 then turn (to work on reverse side) (16)

R3 to R4: 16sc, chain 1 and turn (16)

R5: 16sc, [using white yarn] chain 1 and turn (16)

R6: 16sc, end and leave a short yarn tail. 

Using white, do two lines of slip stitches on top of the bacon between rows 1 and 2, and rows 3 and 4.

Egg white: (in white)

R1: Magic ring, 6sc into ring, remember to join with sl st (6)

R2: *sc inc* x6 (12)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)

R5: *3sc, sc inc* x6 (30) 

R6: 1sc, sc inc, *4sc, sc inc* x5, 3sc (36)

R7: 3sc, sc inc, *5sc, sc inc* x5, 2sc (42), end and leave a long yarn tail to sew yolk and bacon onto egg white. 

Making up:

[Using a darning needle, follow the instructions below.  When you finish sewing, weave the yarn tail into your work a few time to secure then cut off.]

1. Sew arms onto sides of egg yolk, between rows 7 and 8. 

2. Sew legs onto egg yolk, over rows 13 and 14, at the front of yolk. 

3. Weave in yarn tail from egg white stitch by stitch towards the centre, then sew egg yolk onto egg white, aiming for his head to be near the edge of the plate and his bum just over the centre.  Use same yarn tail to sew bacon onto yolk.  

Eyes and mouth: 

Using black felt, cut two tiny ovals for Gudetama's eyes.  I've found them best positioned over rows 6 and 7, slanted downwards at the outer corners.  

Using white felt cut a bigger oval and using black permanent marker, rim edge in black.  Glue over rows 7 and 8.  The best glues for this are UHU or E6000.  

Tip: You may find cutting such small bits of felt difficult.  It will help to use a super sharp pair of scissors, e.g. sharp nail scissors for very well.  If it's still too difficult, try dabbing clear nail varnish onto the felt.  This stiffens the felt and allows better control.  

Mini Crochet Elmo - free crochet / amigurumi pattern

There’s a boutique café next to my son’s nursery where I go to hide from my kids. 

All I do whilst playing truant is crochet, create patterns, write patterns, test out those patterns, and dream up new patterns.  Plus I get peanut butter toast and lemon tea.  It’s heaven.

On one of those days, the café owner Mark told me he was planning surprises for his wife’s birthday and their wedding anniversary.  He asked me if I could crochet a tiny Elmo key ring for him, as his wife is a huge Elmo fan. 

"But Dorothy I swear! I didn't know Sushi was made of fish!"

“Sure”, I said, “I’ll give it a go”.  Not having seen much of Sesame Street for like – decades – I did some research on YouTube, which took me to some pretty inappropriate stuff… But anyway, I didn’t think Elmo or his friend Dorothy the goldfish would be that hard to do.  The slight challenges were the limbs which had to be 2D in view of the size.

Here’s what I came up with, pattern is included below for other Elmo fans courtesy of Mark’s romantic gesture.  I figured cookie monster and accompanying cookie might be possible with minimal adaptations.  Tips on how on subsequent blog post.

What you’ll need:

You can pretty much use any type of yarn you like since slight variation in size won’t matter.  I used a light weight yarn (that suggested a 3.5mm crochet hook) and a 2.5mm hook for a mini Elmo that measures 8cm tall.  I find it easier to think about yarn weight and size according to hook size.  I.e. If you use a yarn that suggests a 4mm hook then your Elmo will finish bigger than 8cm.

Here’s what I worked with:

• -          Red and orange yarn (gauge 22sts x 28rows for 10cm swatch);
• -          Super thin black yarn (or black embroidery floss);  
• -          Crochet hook 2.5mm;
• -          2x white pom poms (0.5mm);
• -          Black felt;
• -          Black/grey embroidery floss;
• -          Tapestry needle;
• -          Polyester filling; and
• -          A key ring.

Abbreviations:

ch                    chain stitch

sl st                  slip stitch

sc                     single crochet

sc inc               single crochet increase, i.e. work 2 single crochets into the same stitch

sc dec              single crochet decrease, i.e. crochet 2 stitches together

dc                    double crochet (yarn over hook once before inserting hook, then pull yarn through 2                             loops at a time, twice)

dc inc              double crochet increase, i.e. work 2 double crochet stitches into the same stitch

dc dec             double crochet decrease, i.e. double crochet 2 stitches together

hdc                  half double crochet (yarn over once, pull yarn through the loops once)

st                     stitche(s)

( )                     numbers in brackets denote total stitches for that row

*                      when a stitch pattern is repeated several times, it is enclosed by asterisks.

                        E.g. *2sc, sc dec* x2 - means single crochet twice, decrease, single crochet

                        twice, decrease.

Head: (in red)

R1: magic ring, ch, 6sc into ring, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (6) [remember to start with a ch st at the beginning of every row AND end each row with a sl st into the first st to end for the rest of the pattern]

R2: *sc inc* x6 (12)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)

R5 to R7: 24sc (24)

R8: *3sc, sc dec* x4, 4sc (20)

R9: *2sc, sc dec* x5 (15)

R10: *sc, sc dec* x5 (10), end leaving a yarn tail at least 8cm long.

Body: (in red)

R1: 8ch (8)

R2: starting at 2^nd ch from hook, work 7sc, sc inc, 5sc, sc inc, sl st to join round. [remember to start with a ch st at the beginning of every row AND end each row with a sl st into the first st to end for the rest of the pattern] (16)

R3: 16sc into backloops only (16)

R4 to R5: 16sc (16)

R6: *3sc, sc dec* x3, sc (13)

R7: 13sc (13)

R8: *3sc, sc dec* x2, 3sc (11), end leaving a short yarn tail to weave into body.

Arms: (make 2 in red)

R1: 8ch (8)

R2: starting at 2^nd ch from hook, 7sc [this forms the arm] (7)

R3: *3ch, then beginning at 2^nd ch from hook, do 2 sl sts [this forms a finger], attach finger to palm by doing a sl st into the last st of R2* repeat three times to make four fingers, end one arm by leaving a short yarn tail and weave end into arm, end the other arm with a 15cm yarn tail to weave into arm and attach both arms to the body.

Legs: (make 2 in red)

Left Foot:

R1: 12ch (12)

R2: starting at 3^rd stitch from hook, 3dc, 2ch 6sc, sc inc, working back towards the foot, 7sl sts, end leaving a long enough yarn tail to weave into leg.

Right Foot:

R1: 11ch (12)

R2: starting at 2^nd ch from hook, 7sc, 2ch, 3dc, 2ch, 10 sl sts along starting ch sts, end leaving a 15cm yarn tail for attaching both legs to the body.

Smile: (in black)

R1: using super thin black yarn, 7ch, starting at 2^nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, 2dc, hdc, sc, ch, sl st into starting ch, end leaving a long enough yarn tail to attach smile to face.

Nose: (in orange)

R1: magic ring, 4sc into ring (4)

R2: *sc, sc inc* x2 (6)

R3: *sc dec* x3 (3), end leaving a long enough yarn tail to attach nose to face.

Dorothy the goldfish: (in orange)

R1: magic ring, 1ch, 4sc into ring, sl st into first st to end. (4)

R2: *sc, sc inc* x2 (6)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x3 (9)

R4: *sc, sc dec* x3 (6)

R5: *sc dec* x3 (3), end of body.

R6: [make tail] 3ch, dc into end of body, *ch, sc dec* x2, 3ch, sl st into body, weave in yarn tail to end.  Sew on features with black embroidery thread on both sides to finish.

Making up:  

Stuff head and body before attaching head to body with yarn tail.  Sew arms onto body with the extra long yarn tail from one arm.  Sew right leg onto body, then using the same yarn tail, attach left leg to body.  Sew on smile. Stuff nose with a little bit of stuffing if needed then attach nose to face.  I sewed the back of the nose onto the face for additional security.

Using the black felt, cut out two tiny black pupils then glue onto the white pom poms.  Glue pom pom eyes to face just above the nose. 

You can either attach Dorothy directly to Elmo’s hand or crochet a long chain to attach Dorothy separately to the key ring. 

Finally, attach key ring to Elmo’s head, I just opened the loop of the key ring chain and attached it to one of the stitches near the crown of his head. 

Et voilà you’re done!  

Check out my other tutorials and check back here for the Cookie Monster pattern! 

Princess Leia Blankie - Free Crochet Pattern and Tutorial (1)

I don't think little girls should grow up wanting to be princesses.  I'd much rather my daughter play with her doctor set or Duplo.  But somehow, "Pink!" and "Princess!" were two of the first words she enunciated with enthusiastic precision.  Damn Disney and their probably harmful yet gorgeously entertaining cartoons...

So for all you Mums of Princess-wannabes, here's a free pattern to feed your daughters' addictions. At least this way they'll appreciate crafting a bit - hopefully.

May these princess obsessions be short and relatively harmless on our girls' development...

Princess Leia Blankie Pattern: (Please read addendum)

It is relatively easy to adapt this pattern to make the princess you’re after.  For the Star Wars fans out there, I’ve included the pattern for a Princess Leia Blankie in full.  Leia can be adapted to become Cinderella and Snow White pretty easily.  Tips on how in subsequent blog post (here).

Materials: 

You can use any type of yarn you like - it isn't too important so long as the different colours you use are of approximately the same weight. I used a light weight yarn and a 3mm hook for a mini princess that measures about 20cm tall.  I find it easier to think about weight and size according to hook size. If you'd like to make a bigger princess, choose a yarn with a bigger suggested hook size.  E.g. using yarn that requires a 5mm hook will make a bigger, more huggable princess suitable as a security blankie for a baby.

Here's what I worked with:

• approx. 30g of white yarn (gauge 22sts x 28rows);
• small amounts of beige, dark brown, grey and black yarn for eyes (if using); 
• crochet hook 3mm;
• tapestry needle;
• polyester filling; and
• scrap-booking brads (if making for older toddlers).

Abbreviations: 

ch                    chain stitch

sl st                  slip stitch

sc                     single crochet

sc inc               single crochet increase, work 2 single crochets into the same stitch

sc dec              single crochet decrease, crochet 2 stitches together

dc                    double crochet (yarn over hook once before inserting hook, then pull yarn through 2 loops at a time, twice)

dc inc              double crochet increase, work 2 double crochet stitches into the same stitch

dc dec             double crochet decrease, double crochet 2 stitches together

tc                     treble crochet (yarn over hook twice before inserting hook, then pull yarn through 2 loops at a time, 3 times) 

tc inc               treble crochet increase, work 2 treble crochet stitches into the same stitch

st                     stitche(s)

( )                     numbers in brackets denote total stitches for that row

*                         when a stitch pattern is repeated several times, it is enclosed by asterisks.
               E.g. *2sc, sc dec* x2 - means single crochet twice, decrease, single crochet
               twice, decrease.

***** Not that this pattern is worked in joined rounds, so each row begins with a 1ch/a line of ch sts, then ends with a sl st into the appropriate starting st. ***** This is written into R1 of every section to remind you to do so.  Please continue for the rest of the pattern.

Dress [in white]: 

The dress is basically one big doily, the centre of which will be pinched up, and the head sewn on. 

R1: magic ring, 1ch, 8sc into loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (8)

R2: 3ch, 6tc inc, tc, sl st into 3^rd ch of line of ch sts from start (14, counting line of 3ch at start as 1st)

R3: 6ch, *2tc inc, 3ch* x6, tc inc, 1tc into the base of the line of 6ch at the start of this row (see pic), sl st into 3^rd ch of that same line of ch sts (see pic). (49)

insert hook into the base of the line of chain stitches

sl st into 3rd chain - turns the starting chain into a treble crochet stitch

R4: 3ch, tc into the hole created by the 3chs from previous row (see pic), 3ch, *2tc into hole, tc into next st, skip 2 sts from previous row, tc into next st, 2tc into hole, 3ch* x6, 2tc into hole, tc into next st, tc into base of the line of 3ch at the start of this row, sl st into 3^rd ch of that same line of ch sts (57)

insert hook into the 'hole' created by the set of 3ch stitches from previous row.

R5: 3ch, tc into next st, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, tc into next 2 sts, skip 2 sts from previous row, tc into next 2 sts* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, tc into next 2 sts, sl st into 3^rd ch of line of ch sts from start. (77)

R6: sl st, 3ch, 2tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 3tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 3tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 3tc, sl st into 3^rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (91)

R7: sl st, 3ch,  3tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 4tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 4tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 4tc, sl st into 3^rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (105)

R8: sl st, 3ch, 4tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 5tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 5tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 5tc, sl st into 3^rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (119)

R9: sl st, 3ch, 5tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 6tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 6tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 6tc, sl st into 3^rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (133)

R10: sl st, 3ch, 6tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 7tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 7tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 7tc, sl st into 3^rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (147)

R11: sl st, 3ch, 7tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 8tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 8tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 8tc, sl st into 3^rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (161)

R12: [edge] 1ch, *21sc, sc dec* x6, 22sc. (155) End row and weave in yarn tails at start and finish.

Head [in beige]:

R1: magic ring, 1ch, 6sc into loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (6)

R2: 6sc inc (12)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)

R5: *3sc, sc inc* x6 (30)

R6: *4sc, sc inc* x6 (36)

R7 – R10: 36sc (36)

R11: *4sc, sc dec* x6 (30)

R12: *3sc, sc dec* x6 (24)

R13: *2sc, sc dec* x6 (18)

R14: *sc, sc dec* x6 (12) [now fill the head with polyester filling]

R15: 6sc dec (6). End row and leave a yarn tail at least 10cm long.

Hair [in dark brown]:

The hair piece fits on top of head like a cap.  It is first worked in joined rounds to make a circle, then the fringe is worked before the back of the head is continued.

R1: magic ring, 1ch, 6sc into loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (6)

R2: 6sc inc (12)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)

R5: *3sc, sc inc* x6 (30)

R6: *4sc, sc inc* x6 (36)

R7: *5sc, sc inc* x6 (42)

R8: [work fringe], 3ch, skip 1 st from previous row, 6dc, 3ch, skip 1 st from previous row, sl st, 3ch, skip 1st from previous row, 6dc, 3ch, skip 1 st from previous row, sl st. (16, counting the lines of ch sts as 1) [end of fringe]

R9: [work back of head] 2ch, 23dc, turn. (24, counting 2ch as 1st)

R10: [working on reverse side of hair piece], 2ch, 21dc, turn. (22)

R11: [now on front side], 2ch, 19dc, turn. (20)

R12: [now on reverse side again], 2ch, 17dc. (18) End row and leave a yarn tail at least 20cm long.

Princess Leia’s Buns ;) [in dark brown] make 2:

R1: 6ch, join ends with sl st to make a loop, 1ch (6)

R2: [from now on, work on single loops on outside edge only] *sc inc, sc* x3 (9)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x4, sc (13)

R4: 13sc. (13) End row and leave a yarn tail of at least 8cm.

Arms [in beige and whie] – make 2:

R1: magic ring, 1ch, 5sc into loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (5)

R2: 5sc inc (10)

R3 – R5: 10sc (10)

R6: [change to white] 10sc (10)

R7 – R10: 10sc (10)

R11: sc dec, 8sc (9)

R12 – R18: 9sc (9). End row and leave yarn tail at least 8cm long.

Belt [in grey]:

Work a long line of ch sts until the belt measures approx. 35cm, weave in yarn tails.

Making up:

1. Fit hair piece onto head, the back hair should reach down to about the 4^th row from bottom of head, and the fringe should reach down to about row 7 of head. (see pic) Sew hair on head using yarn tail.

   

   You can place the hair however you like.  I found it cutest with fringe on row 7.

2. Sew buns onto sides of head and hair.  It should sit above the place where the fringe and back hair meet. (see pic)

   

   Bun placement - use it to cover up the gap between fringe and back hair!

3. Sew head onto dress using yarn tail.  Align the last row of the head with the first row of the dress. 
4. Sew arms onto dress where it meets the head using yarn tail.
5. Thread belt through the holes at back of dress around R5, then tie it to the front of dress with a bow.

   

   Thread the belt through the 'holes' round the back for security, then tie it without looping at the front, that way looks prettier! 

6. WARNING!!!! If you’re giving the blankie to a child under 3 years old, DO NOT use beads/brads/buttons for eyes – they are choking hazards!  Sew Princess’s features on with thread and yarn, or draw them on with fabric pens.  I’m giving Leia to a 4 year old so I’ve used black scrap-booking brads, with pupils painted on with white nail varnish and smaller pink brads as rosy cheeks. I glued them on with E6000 glue (the best glue in the world btw). I’ve also sewn little flicks just above the eyes for eye lashes.
   

And voila you’re done!!!  The pattern is easily adaptable, simply by changing the colour of the dress and hairstyle you can make different princess.  Check back for pattern for Cinderella and Snow White in subsequent post here.