I don't
think little girls should grow up wanting to be princesses. I'd much
rather my daughter play with her doctor set or Duplo. But somehow,
"Pink!" and "Princess!" were two of the first words she
enunciated with enthusiastic precision. Damn Disney and their probably
harmful yet gorgeously entertaining cartoons...
So for
all you Mums of Princess-wannabes, here's a free pattern to feed your
daughters' addictions. At least this way they'll appreciate crafting a bit -
hopefully.
Princess Leia
Blankie Pattern: (Please read addendum)
It is relatively easy to adapt this pattern to make the princess you’re after. For the Star Wars fans out there, I’ve included the pattern for a Princess Leia Blankie in full. Leia can be adapted to become Cinderella and Snow White pretty easily. Tips on how in subsequent blog post (here).
Materials:
You can
use any type of yarn you like - it isn't too important so long as the different
colours you use are of approximately the same weight. I used a light weight
yarn and a 3mm hook for a mini princess that measures about 20cm tall. I
find it easier to think about weight and size according to hook size. If you'd
like to make a bigger princess, choose a yarn with a bigger suggested hook
size. E.g. using yarn that requires a 5mm hook will make a bigger, more
huggable princess suitable as a security blankie for a baby.
Here's
what I worked with:
- approx.
30g of white yarn (gauge 22sts x 28rows);
- small
amounts of beige, dark brown, grey and black yarn for eyes (if
using);
- crochet
hook 3mm;
- tapestry
needle;
- polyester
filling; and
- scrap-booking brads (if making for older toddlers).
Abbreviations:
ch chain stitch
sl st slip stitch
sc single crochet
sc inc single crochet increase, work 2 single crochets into the
same stitch
sc dec single crochet decrease, crochet 2 stitches together
dc double
crochet (yarn over hook once before inserting hook, then pull yarn through 2
loops at a time, twice)
dc inc double crochet increase, work 2 double crochet stitches
into the same stitch
dc dec double crochet decrease, double crochet 2 stitches
together
tc treble
crochet (yarn over hook twice before inserting hook, then pull yarn through 2
loops at a time, 3 times)
tc inc treble crochet increase, work 2 treble crochet stitches
into the same stitch
st stitche(s)
( ) numbers in brackets denote total stitches for that row
* when a stitch pattern is
repeated several times, it is enclosed by asterisks.
E.g. *2sc, sc dec* x2 - means single crochet twice, decrease, single crochet
twice, decrease.
E.g. *2sc, sc dec* x2 - means single crochet twice, decrease, single crochet
twice, decrease.
***** Not that this pattern is worked in joined rounds, so each row begins with a 1ch/a line of ch sts, then ends with a sl st into the appropriate starting st. ***** This is written into R1 of every section to remind you to do so. Please continue for the rest of the pattern.
Dress [in white]:
The dress is basically one big doily, the centre of which will be
pinched up, and the head sewn on.
R1: magic ring, 1ch, 8sc into
loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (8)
R2: 3ch, 6tc inc, tc, sl st into 3rd
ch of line of ch sts from start (14, counting line of 3ch at start as 1st)
R3: 6ch, *2tc inc, 3ch* x6, tc inc, 1tc
into the base of the line of 6ch at the start of this row (see pic), sl st into
3rd ch of that same line of ch sts (see pic). (49)
R4: 3ch, tc into the hole created by the 3chs from previous row (see pic), 3ch, *2tc into hole, tc into next st, skip 2 sts from previous row, tc into next st, 2tc into hole, 3ch* x6, 2tc into hole, tc into next st, tc into base of the line of 3ch at the start of this row, sl st into 3rd ch of that same line of ch sts (57)
insert hook into the base of the line of chain stitches |
sl st into 3rd chain - turns the starting chain into a treble crochet stitch |
R4: 3ch, tc into the hole created by the 3chs from previous row (see pic), 3ch, *2tc into hole, tc into next st, skip 2 sts from previous row, tc into next st, 2tc into hole, 3ch* x6, 2tc into hole, tc into next st, tc into base of the line of 3ch at the start of this row, sl st into 3rd ch of that same line of ch sts (57)
insert hook into the 'hole' created by the set of 3ch stitches from previous row. |
R5: 3ch, tc into next st, *2tc into
hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, tc into next 2 sts, skip 2 sts from previous row, tc
into next 2 sts* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, tc into next 2 sts, sl
st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts from start. (77)
R6: sl st, 3ch, 2tc, *2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 3tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 3tc* x6, 2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 3tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at
start. (91)
R7: sl st, 3ch, 3tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 4tc,
skip 2 sts from previous row, 4tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 4tc,
sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (105)
R8: sl st, 3ch, 4tc, *2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 5tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 5tc* x6, 2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 5tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at
start. (119)
R9: sl st, 3ch, 5tc, *2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 6tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 6tc* x6, 2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 6tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at
start. (133)
R10: sl st, 3ch, 6tc, *2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 7tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 7tc* x6, 2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 7tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at
start. (147)
R11: sl st, 3ch, 7tc, *2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 8tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 8tc* x6, 2tc into hole,
3ch, 2tc into hole, 8tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at
start. (161)
R12: [edge] 1ch, *21sc, sc dec* x6,
22sc. (155) End row and weave in yarn tails at start and finish.
Head [in beige]:
R1: magic ring, 1ch, 6sc into
loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (6)
R2: 6sc inc (12)
R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)
R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)
R5: *3sc, sc inc* x6 (30)
R6: *4sc, sc inc* x6 (36)
R7 – R10: 36sc (36)
R11: *4sc, sc dec* x6 (30)
R12: *3sc, sc dec* x6 (24)
R13: *2sc, sc dec* x6 (18)
R14: *sc, sc dec* x6 (12) [now fill the
head with polyester filling]
R15: 6sc dec (6). End row and leave a
yarn tail at least 10cm long.
Hair [in dark brown]:
The hair piece fits on top of head like
a cap. It is first worked in joined
rounds to make a circle, then the fringe is worked before the back of the head
is continued.
R1: magic ring, 1ch, 6sc into
loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (6)
R2: 6sc inc (12)
R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)
R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)
R5: *3sc, sc inc* x6 (30)
R6: *4sc, sc inc* x6 (36)
R7: *5sc, sc inc* x6 (42)
R8: [work fringe], 3ch, skip 1 st from
previous row, 6dc, 3ch, skip 1 st from previous row, sl st, 3ch, skip 1st from
previous row, 6dc, 3ch, skip 1 st from previous row, sl st. (16, counting the
lines of ch sts as 1) [end of fringe]
R9: [work back of head] 2ch, 23dc,
turn. (24, counting 2ch as 1st)
R10: [working on reverse side of hair
piece], 2ch, 21dc, turn. (22)
R11: [now on front side], 2ch, 19dc,
turn. (20)
R12: [now on reverse side again], 2ch,
17dc. (18) End row and leave a yarn tail at least 20cm long.
Princess Leia’s Buns ;) [in dark brown]
make 2:
R1: 6ch, join ends with sl st to make a
loop, 1ch (6)
R2: [from now on, work on single loops
on outside edge only] *sc inc, sc* x3 (9)
R3: *sc, sc inc* x4, sc (13)
R4: 13sc. (13) End row and leave a yarn tail
of at least 8cm.
Arms [in beige and whie] – make 2:
R1: magic ring, 1ch, 5sc into
loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (5)
R2: 5sc inc (10)
R3 – R5: 10sc (10)
R6: [change to white] 10sc (10)
R7 – R10: 10sc (10)
R11: sc dec, 8sc (9)
R12 – R18: 9sc (9). End row and leave
yarn tail at least 8cm long.
Belt [in grey]:
Work a long line of ch sts until the
belt measures approx. 35cm, weave in yarn tails.
Making up:
- Fit hair piece onto head, the back hair should reach down to about the 4th row from bottom of head, and the fringe should reach down to about row 7 of head. (see pic) Sew hair on head using yarn tail.
You can place the hair however you like. I found it cutest with fringe on row 7. - Sew buns onto sides of head and hair. It should sit above the place where the fringe and back hair meet. (see pic)
Bun placement - use it to cover up the gap between fringe and back hair! - Sew head onto dress using yarn tail. Align the last row of the head with the first row of the dress.
- Sew arms onto dress where it meets the head using yarn tail.
- Thread belt through the holes at back of dress around R5, then tie it to the front of dress with a bow.
Thread the belt through the 'holes' round the back for security, then tie it without looping at the front, that way looks prettier! - WARNING!!!! If you’re giving the blankie to a child under 3 years old, DO NOT use beads/brads/buttons for eyes – they are choking hazards! Sew Princess’s features on with thread and yarn, or draw them on with fabric pens. I’m giving Leia to a 4 year old so I’ve used black scrap-booking brads, with pupils painted on with white nail varnish and smaller pink brads as rosy cheeks. I glued them on with E6000 glue (the best glue in the world btw). I’ve also sewn little flicks just above the eyes for eye lashes.
And voila you’re done!!! The pattern is easily adaptable, simply by
changing the colour of the dress and hairstyle you can make different
princess. Check back for pattern for
Cinderella and Snow White in subsequent post here.
Thank you!Super cute :)
ReplyDeleteGorgeous, can[t wait to start!!! Thank you!!!
ReplyDeleteWhat a terrific crochet project-I love it! Thanks very much for posting! :P)
ReplyDelete_____
Lee Ann
http://crochetgottaloveit.blogspot.com
That is so precious, thank you!!
ReplyDeleteOMG I am confused
ReplyDelete
Deletefigured it out,
If you tell me which bits you're confused by I can post extra explanations :)
ReplyDeleteGot lost in row 2 when it says 6 tc increase. Increase where was my question. But I do want to know if in row 3, it says 49 stitches but I only came up (with my intrepretation) with 28. Perhaps I did not increase enough or something because this put every stitch count off after that.
ReplyDelete"6tc inc" means work 2tc stitches into each stitch 6 times, so you need to increase for every stitch in that row basically.
ReplyDeleteAs for row 3, have you counted the ch sts?
I was wondering if you allow people to sell the things they make using this pattern? Or is this for personal use only?
ReplyDeletePlease could you send me a Private msg on Facebook to discuss?
ReplyDeleteWhat size brads did you use for the eyes and cheeks?
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI was also curious as to your policy on possibly selling the finished item. Is there any way to contact you besides Facebook?
If you leave your email here I can contact you. Otherwise you can convo me on Etsy- my shop is Stuff Susie Made
DeleteOh thank you so much! Two little girls are going to be super happy!
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeletei love it... thanks you. you very kind... :)))))
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for sharing this pattern for free!!
ReplyDeleteim lost on row 4 help please
ReplyDeleterow 4 of the dress
ReplyDeleteThanks for the pattern. Perfect timing with the new movie coming out. I am going to make a couple of these to donate to a children's hospital.
ReplyDeleteHi Susie! Thank you so much for the pattern! I got inspired and designed a Darth Vader head to go with your pattern. Everywhere in the pattern I just refer to you for the parts I didn't design, so I hope you are ok with it like this. If not, just send me a message through my site and I will delete it! http://thepurplelady.net/2016/01/free-pattern-darth-vader-blankie/
ReplyDeleteWonderful pattern!! I was just wondering, what are the dimensions on the finished work?
ReplyDeleteBonjour, merci pour le tuto grace à google, je peux l'avoir en français, moi qui adore faire du crochet surtout les poupées vous remerciant encore pour le partage vous souhaitant une bonne fin de journée.
ReplyDeleteDe riens Muriel. En fait je me demande si Google Traduction marche bien pour les patrons de crochet? J'aimerais creer des patrons en francais mais pas encore essaye.
DeleteThank you Susie for this delightful pattern which is very clever. Regards, Michele
ReplyDeletePLEASE HELP!!!! In row 3 I'm going only getting 35 counting the ch3
ReplyDeleteIf you count the 28 tcs and the 21 ch sts(3 of the beg. 6ch) you get 49. I was confused at first, too. You only do the *2tc inc, 3ch* a total of 6x, not 6 after the first time.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHi Susie thank you for the free pattern absolutely gorgeous! I have a question though,working on the hair section and have the fringe done but I am confused after that as to whether I should tie off the crochet or continue actually on the hairpiece I get confused when reading the instructions going back to front of head and so forth, thank you in advance
ReplyDeleteStarted with your pattern and adapted it for a generic princess. Used puff paint for cheeks and eyes since it is for a baby. It turned out great and will be used as a topper for the diaper cake. Would love to share the picture with you.
ReplyDeleteplease do!
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteThe "dress" portion of the pattern makes zero sense. It is not user friendly AT ALL, and I am an extremely advanced crocheter, but I am sitting here having no idea what you are taking about....
ReplyDeleteLucky then you're an extremely advanced crocheter so you should be able to figure it out from the photos.
DeleteLol your pattern is a complete joke. Not even the photos make sense. If someone has to try and figure out photos that don't even make sense, to a pattern that makes no sense, then it needs to be redone. I shouldn't have to try and pick apart your pictures to figure out a written pattern. A written pattern is just that, written words to tell you how to make something. And your written words need revising. I actually resorted to paying for a pattern versus using yours for completely free. No wonder it is a free pattern. If people paid something and this is what they got, you would have some really upset customers. I think you might want to rethink your hobby of pattern writing.
ReplyDeleteWith this being a FREE pattern, I think you are very rude with your comment. Just how many pattern have you designed and given away?
DeleteDear Anonymous,
DeleteMany apologies! I'm afraid the sarcasm in my previous message didn't quite get through to you. Let me explain. When I suggested you 'figure it out from the photos', I wasn't actually suggesting you try that. I was sarcastically telling you to go away. And also suggesting your crochet skills are less advanced than you think.
Now I see why you found my pattern so hard to understand...
Thank you for the kind words nanabanana52 :) Though I doubt this person has ever managed to follow a pattern, let alone write one.
ReplyDeleteHello, just wanted to say yes your pattern is a little hard to follow even for someone like me that has been crocheting for 20 + years. But if you goggle the terms you can figure it out easy... So hope this helps everyone else... And thanks Susan for sharing your work with us!!
ReplyDeleteHey Susie. This is a really cute pattern. Thanks for sharing. I am attempting it for my neice who is pregnant and a big star wars fan. I am a little confused on the hair section at the back of the head. It looks like you are decreasing but one sided. Going from 24 to 22 stitches in R10 I cannot see how you intend it to he central. It seems to miss the last 2 stitches before turning. Am I missing something? Thanks. Simon
ReplyDeleteHi Simon,
ReplyDeleteYou're right, R10 turns 2 stitches before the end. It also ends 2 stitches before the end. This is to make the hair line narrower towards the neck to mimic hair pulled up into buns. So R10 will have 4 stitches fewer than R9 in total. Hope that helps.
do you have a video on how to do this pattern. I have never made a doll & I am trying to make my first. I dont't understand R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)
ReplyDeleteR10: [working on reverse side of hair piece], 2ch, 21dc, turn. (22)
R11: [now on front side], 2ch, 19dc, turn. (20)
R12: [now on reverse side again], 2ch, 17dc. (18) End row and leave a yarn tail at least 20cm long. please help
Hi Susie. Please help me, in round 1 You end up with 8 stitches, round 2 You end up with 14 , i get a hole where You join because You dont make a stitch in the last stitch ( normally if You make 2 Inc in each stitch You would end up with 16 stitches. What do I do wrong?
ReplyDeleteThanks Søs
I'm stuck on row 4... someone please help
ReplyDeleteHello, on the hair, what is Work Fringe?
ReplyDeleteHow adorable, thank you for sharing your creativity. I once made a doily similar to the dress, so far no problem,(working on row 8). Can hardly wait to finish.
ReplyDeleteConfused. I’m not getting 57 st in R4 in dress...
ReplyDeleteWow i can say that this is another great article as expected of this blog.Bookmarked this site.. Free baby Samples giveaway in canada
ReplyDeleteI don't know if you still check comments on this pattern...but first of all, thank you! My Star Wars loving daughter is very excited. Second, I haven't had any confusion with the pattern until I reached the back of the hair. Pattern says DC, but your pictures look SC. My DCs just make the back of the head look baggy (and I made tight stitches.) How does it fit the head without looking wonky? Is it really supposed to be SC?
ReplyDeleteThanks for your help! Loving how this is turning out thus far. :)
So I am confused about the increasing on the dress(blanket) part of this lovey. I have taken it apart 5 times and I just can’t seem to get the count right. Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteBy following this comprehensive tutorial, you'll be equipped with the knowledge and skills needed to navigate CapCut confidently, producing high-quality videos that captivate your audience https://capcut.blog.fc2.com/blog-entry-1.html
ReplyDelete