Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label free pattern. Show all posts

Friday, May 8, 2020

Staying home is helpful, but I'd rather punch Coronavirus in the face. (free pattern)



Dear Coronavirus,

You suck.  Because of you I've been stuck at home with both kids and have to do HBL (hell based learning).  It's not like I don't have anything else to do... oh wait - I actually don't because you're the reason my day job has ground to a halt too.  At least that's given me a bit more time once the kids are in bed to crochet.  So I've crocheted a physical version of you with a dumb smile so I can punch you. In the face. Repeatedly.




Edited to add.  Some of you have asked for the pattern so here it is.  It's basically a ball with red bits.  I've written it out for ease: 

Virus spore [in grey yarn]

R1 Magic ring, 6sc into ring 
R2 sc inc x 6 (12)
R3 1sc, sc inc x 6 (18)
R4 2sc, sc inc x 6 (24)
R5 3sc, sc inc x 6 (30) 
R6 4sc, sc inc x 6 (36)
R7 5sc, sc inc x 6 (42) 
R8 6sc, sc inc x 6 (48)

R9 to R13 sc 48 (48) 

R14 6sc, sc dec x 6 (42)
R15 5sc, sc dec x 6 (36)
R16 4sc, sc dec x 6 (30)
R17 3sc, sc dec x 6 (24)
R18 2sc, sc dec x 6 (18)
R19 1sc, sc dec x 6 (12)

Stuff the ball with polyester filling. 

R20 sc dec x 6 (6)

Sew the 6 stitches closed. 

Red spikes [apparently they're proteins]
Make about 18. 

ch 6, sl st into 2nd ch from hook (this forms the first triangular spike), ch 3 then sl st into 2nd ch from hook (2nd spike), ch 3 then sl st into 2nd ch from hook (final spike),  sl st 3 to form the stalk. Leave a long yarn tail to sew onto the grey ball.

Probably easiest in chart form: 


The yellow/orange/white bits.  Sew randomly, spread out on grey ball. 

Then with orange embroidery thread (using the whole 6 strands), sew on 2 french knots close to each other onto virus spore. 

With white fluffy yarn, sew on one loose french knot. 

With pale yellow embroidery thread, sew on a bigger french knot (I wound the thread around the needle about 6 times) onto virus spore. 



Finally, sew on with black yarn or thread, eyebrows and a stupid smile. 

Add on safety eyes.  I placed them between rows 9 and 10, 5 stitches apart. 

Have fun punching! 





Friday, April 10, 2015

Mini Crochet Elmo - free crochet / amigurumi pattern




There’s a boutique café next to my son’s nursery where I go to hide from my kids. 

All I do whilst playing truant is crochet, create patterns, write patterns, test out those patterns, and dream up new patterns.  Plus I get peanut butter toast and lemon tea.  It’s heaven.

On one of those days, the café owner Mark told me he was planning surprises for his wife’s birthday and their wedding anniversary.  He asked me if I could crochet a tiny Elmo key ring for him, as his wife is a huge Elmo fan. 

"But Dorothy I swear! I didn't know Sushi was made of fish!"

“Sure”, I said, “I’ll give it a go”.  Not having seen much of Sesame Street for like – decades – I did some research on YouTube, which took me to some pretty inappropriate stuff… But anyway, I didn’t think Elmo or his friend Dorothy the goldfish would be that hard to do.  The slight challenges were the limbs which had to be 2D in view of the size.

Here’s what I came up with, pattern is included below for other Elmo fans courtesy of Mark’s romantic gesture.  I figured cookie monster and accompanying cookie might be possible with minimal adaptations.  Tips on how on subsequent blog post.



What you’ll need:
You can pretty much use any type of yarn you like since slight variation in size won’t matter.  I used a light weight yarn (that suggested a 3.5mm crochet hook) and a 2.5mm hook for a mini Elmo that measures 8cm tall.  I find it easier to think about yarn weight and size according to hook size.  I.e. If you use a yarn that suggests a 4mm hook then your Elmo will finish bigger than 8cm.

Here’s what I worked with:
  • -          Red and orange yarn (gauge 22sts x 28rows for 10cm swatch);
  • -          Super thin black yarn (or black embroidery floss);  
  • -          Crochet hook 2.5mm;
  • -          2x white pom poms (0.5mm);
  • -          Black felt;
  • -          Black/grey embroidery floss;
  • -          Tapestry needle;
  • -          Polyester filling; and
  • -          A key ring.

Abbreviations:
ch                    chain stitch
sl st                  slip stitch
sc                     single crochet
sc inc               single crochet increase, i.e. work 2 single crochets into the same stitch
sc dec              single crochet decrease, i.e. crochet 2 stitches together
dc                    double crochet (yarn over hook once before inserting hook, then pull yarn through 2                             loops at a time, twice)
dc inc              double crochet increase, i.e. work 2 double crochet stitches into the same stitch
dc dec             double crochet decrease, i.e. double crochet 2 stitches together
hdc                  half double crochet (yarn over once, pull yarn through the loops once)
st                     stitche(s)

( )                     numbers in brackets denote total stitches for that row
*                      when a stitch pattern is repeated several times, it is enclosed by asterisks.
                        E.g. *2sc, sc dec* x2 - means single crochet twice, decrease, single crochet
                        twice, decrease.


Head: (in red)

R1: magic ring, ch, 6sc into ring, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (6) [remember to start with a ch st at the beginning of every row AND end each row with a sl st into the first st to end for the rest of the pattern]

R2: *sc inc* x6 (12)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)

R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)

R5 to R7: 24sc (24)

R8: *3sc, sc dec* x4, 4sc (20)

R9: *2sc, sc dec* x5 (15)

R10: *sc, sc dec* x5 (10), end leaving a yarn tail at least 8cm long.


Body: (in red)

R1: 8ch (8)

R2: starting at 2nd ch from hook, work 7sc, sc inc, 5sc, sc inc, sl st to join round. [remember to start with a ch st at the beginning of every row AND end each row with a sl st into the first st to end for the rest of the pattern] (16)

R3: 16sc into backloops only (16)

R4 to R5: 16sc (16)

R6: *3sc, sc dec* x3, sc (13)

R7: 13sc (13)

R8: *3sc, sc dec* x2, 3sc (11), end leaving a short yarn tail to weave into body.



Arms: (make 2 in red)

R1: 8ch (8)

R2: starting at 2nd ch from hook, 7sc [this forms the arm] (7)

R3: *3ch, then beginning at 2nd ch from hook, do 2 sl sts [this forms a finger], attach finger to palm by doing a sl st into the last st of R2* repeat three times to make four fingers, end one arm by leaving a short yarn tail and weave end into arm, end the other arm with a 15cm yarn tail to weave into arm and attach both arms to the body.



Legs: (make 2 in red)

Left Foot:

R1: 12ch (12)

R2: starting at 3rd stitch from hook, 3dc, 2ch 6sc, sc inc, working back towards the foot, 7sl sts, end leaving a long enough yarn tail to weave into leg.

Right Foot:

R1: 11ch (12)

R2: starting at 2nd ch from hook, 7sc, 2ch, 3dc, 2ch, 10 sl sts along starting ch sts, end leaving a 15cm yarn tail for attaching both legs to the body.


Smile: (in black)

R1: using super thin black yarn, 7ch, starting at 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, 2dc, hdc, sc, ch, sl st into starting ch, end leaving a long enough yarn tail to attach smile to face.


Nose: (in orange)

R1: magic ring, 4sc into ring (4)

R2: *sc, sc inc* x2 (6)

R3: *sc dec* x3 (3), end leaving a long enough yarn tail to attach nose to face.


Dorothy the goldfish: (in orange)

R1: magic ring, 1ch, 4sc into ring, sl st into first st to end. (4)

R2: *sc, sc inc* x2 (6)

R3: *sc, sc inc* x3 (9)

R4: *sc, sc dec* x3 (6)

R5: *sc dec* x3 (3), end of body.

R6: [make tail] 3ch, dc into end of body, *ch, sc dec* x2, 3ch, sl st into body, weave in yarn tail to end.  Sew on features with black embroidery thread on both sides to finish.


Making up:  

Stuff head and body before attaching head to body with yarn tail.  Sew arms onto body with the extra long yarn tail from one arm.  Sew right leg onto body, then using the same yarn tail, attach left leg to body.  Sew on smile. Stuff nose with a little bit of stuffing if needed then attach nose to face.  I sewed the back of the nose onto the face for additional security.


Using the black felt, cut out two tiny black pupils then glue onto the white pom poms.  Glue pom pom eyes to face just above the nose. 

You can either attach Dorothy directly to Elmo’s hand or crochet a long chain to attach Dorothy separately to the key ring. 


Finally, attach key ring to Elmo’s head, I just opened the loop of the key ring chain and attached it to one of the stitches near the crown of his head. 

Et voilà you’re done!  


Check out my other tutorials and check back here for the Cookie Monster pattern! 

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Princess Leia Blankie - Free Crochet Pattern and Tutorial (1)


I don't think little girls should grow up wanting to be princesses.  I'd much rather my daughter play with her doctor set or Duplo.  But somehow, "Pink!" and "Princess!" were two of the first words she enunciated with enthusiastic precision.  Damn Disney and their probably harmful yet gorgeously entertaining cartoons...

So for all you Mums of Princess-wannabes, here's a free pattern to feed your daughters' addictions. At least this way they'll appreciate crafting a bit - hopefully.

May these princess obsessions be short and relatively harmless on our girls' development...





Princess Leia Blankie Pattern: (Please read addendum)
It is relatively easy to adapt this pattern to make the princess you’re after.  For the Star Wars fans out there, I’ve included the pattern for a Princess Leia Blankie in full.  Leia can be adapted to become Cinderella and Snow White pretty easily.  Tips on how in subsequent blog post (here).

Materials: 
You can use any type of yarn you like - it isn't too important so long as the different colours you use are of approximately the same weight. I used a light weight yarn and a 3mm hook for a mini princess that measures about 20cm tall.  I find it easier to think about weight and size according to hook size. If you'd like to make a bigger princess, choose a yarn with a bigger suggested hook size.  E.g. using yarn that requires a 5mm hook will make a bigger, more huggable princess suitable as a security blankie for a baby.

Here's what I worked with:
  • approx. 30g of white yarn (gauge 22sts x 28rows);
  • small amounts of beige, dark brown, grey and black yarn for eyes (if using); 
  • crochet hook 3mm;
  • tapestry needle;
  • polyester filling; and
  • scrap-booking brads (if making for older toddlers).

Abbreviations: 
ch                    chain stitch
sl st                  slip stitch
sc                     single crochet
sc inc               single crochet increase, work 2 single crochets into the same stitch
sc dec              single crochet decrease, crochet 2 stitches together
dc                    double crochet (yarn over hook once before inserting hook, then pull yarn through 2 loops at a time, twice)
dc inc              double crochet increase, work 2 double crochet stitches into the same stitch
dc dec             double crochet decrease, double crochet 2 stitches together
tc                     treble crochet (yarn over hook twice before inserting hook, then pull yarn through 2 loops at a time, 3 times) 
tc inc               treble crochet increase, work 2 treble crochet stitches into the same stitch
st                     stitche(s)

( )                     numbers in brackets denote total stitches for that row
*                         when a stitch pattern is repeated several times, it is enclosed by asterisks.
               E.g. *2sc, sc dec* x2 - means single crochet twice, decrease, single crochet
               twice, decrease.

***** Not that this pattern is worked in joined rounds, so each row begins with a 1ch/a line of ch sts, then ends with a sl st into the appropriate starting st. ***** This is written into R1 of every section to remind you to do so.  Please continue for the rest of the pattern.

Dress [in white]: 
The dress is basically one big doily, the centre of which will be pinched up, and the head sewn on. 

R1: magic ring, 1ch, 8sc into loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (8)
R2: 3ch, 6tc inc, tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts from start (14, counting line of 3ch at start as 1st)
R3: 6ch, *2tc inc, 3ch* x6, tc inc, 1tc into the base of the line of 6ch at the start of this row (see pic), sl st into 3rd ch of that same line of ch sts (see pic). (49)


insert hook into the base of the line of chain stitches


sl st into 3rd chain - turns the starting chain into a treble crochet stitch

R4: 3ch, tc into the hole created by the 3chs from previous row (see pic), 3ch, *2tc into hole, tc into next st, skip 2 sts from previous row, tc into next st, 2tc into hole, 3ch* x6, 2tc into hole, tc into next st, tc into base of the line of 3ch at the start of this row, sl st into 3rd ch of that same line of ch sts (57)



insert hook into the 'hole' created by the set of 3ch stitches from previous row.

R5: 3ch, tc into next st, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, tc into next 2 sts, skip 2 sts from previous row, tc into next 2 sts* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, tc into next 2 sts, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts from start. (77)
R6: sl st, 3ch, 2tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 3tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 3tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 3tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (91)
R7: sl st, 3ch,  3tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 4tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 4tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 4tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (105)
R8: sl st, 3ch, 4tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 5tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 5tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 5tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (119)
R9: sl st, 3ch, 5tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 6tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 6tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 6tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (133)
R10: sl st, 3ch, 6tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 7tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 7tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 7tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (147)
R11: sl st, 3ch, 7tc, *2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 8tc, skip 2 sts from previous row, 8tc* x6, 2tc into hole, 3ch, 2tc into hole, 8tc, sl st into 3rd ch of line of ch sts at start. (161)
R12: [edge] 1ch, *21sc, sc dec* x6, 22sc. (155) End row and weave in yarn tails at start and finish.

Head [in beige]:
R1: magic ring, 1ch, 6sc into loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (6)
R2: 6sc inc (12)
R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)
R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)
R5: *3sc, sc inc* x6 (30)
R6: *4sc, sc inc* x6 (36)
R7 – R10: 36sc (36)
R11: *4sc, sc dec* x6 (30)
R12: *3sc, sc dec* x6 (24)
R13: *2sc, sc dec* x6 (18)
R14: *sc, sc dec* x6 (12) [now fill the head with polyester filling]
R15: 6sc dec (6). End row and leave a yarn tail at least 10cm long.

Hair [in dark brown]:
The hair piece fits on top of head like a cap.  It is first worked in joined rounds to make a circle, then the fringe is worked before the back of the head is continued.

R1: magic ring, 1ch, 6sc into loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (6)
R2: 6sc inc (12)
R3: *sc, sc inc* x6 (18)
R4: *2sc, sc inc* x6 (24)
R5: *3sc, sc inc* x6 (30)
R6: *4sc, sc inc* x6 (36)
R7: *5sc, sc inc* x6 (42)
R8: [work fringe], 3ch, skip 1 st from previous row, 6dc, 3ch, skip 1 st from previous row, sl st, 3ch, skip 1st from previous row, 6dc, 3ch, skip 1 st from previous row, sl st. (16, counting the lines of ch sts as 1) [end of fringe]
R9: [work back of head] 2ch, 23dc, turn. (24, counting 2ch as 1st)
R10: [working on reverse side of hair piece], 2ch, 21dc, turn. (22)
R11: [now on front side], 2ch, 19dc, turn. (20)
R12: [now on reverse side again], 2ch, 17dc. (18) End row and leave a yarn tail at least 20cm long.

Princess Leia’s Buns ;) [in dark brown] make 2:
R1: 6ch, join ends with sl st to make a loop, 1ch (6)
R2: [from now on, work on single loops on outside edge only] *sc inc, sc* x3 (9)
R3: *sc, sc inc* x4, sc (13)
R4: 13sc. (13) End row and leave a yarn tail of at least 8cm.

Arms [in beige and whie] – make 2:
R1: magic ring, 1ch, 5sc into loop, tighten ring, join round with sl st. (5)
R2: 5sc inc (10)
R3 – R5: 10sc (10)
R6: [change to white] 10sc (10)
R7 – R10: 10sc (10)
R11: sc dec, 8sc (9)
R12 – R18: 9sc (9). End row and leave yarn tail at least 8cm long.

Belt [in grey]:
Work a long line of ch sts until the belt measures approx. 35cm, weave in yarn tails.

Making up:
  1. Fit hair piece onto head, the back hair should reach down to about the 4th row from bottom of head, and the fringe should reach down to about row 7 of head. (see pic) Sew hair on head using yarn tail.
    You can place the hair however you like.  I found it cutest with fringe on row 7.
  2. Sew buns onto sides of head and hair.  It should sit above the place where the fringe and back hair meet. (see pic)
    Bun placement - use it to cover up the gap between fringe and back hair!
  3. Sew head onto dress using yarn tail.  Align the last row of the head with the first row of the dress. 
  4. Sew arms onto dress where it meets the head using yarn tail.
  5. Thread belt through the holes at back of dress around R5, then tie it to the front of dress with a bow.
    Thread the belt through the 'holes' round the back for security, then tie it without looping at the front, that way looks prettier! 
  6. WARNING!!!! If you’re giving the blankie to a child under 3 years old, DO NOT use beads/brads/buttons for eyes – they are choking hazards!  Sew Princess’s features on with thread and yarn, or draw them on with fabric pens.  I’m giving Leia to a 4 year old so I’ve used black scrap-booking brads, with pupils painted on with white nail varnish and smaller pink brads as rosy cheeks. I glued them on with E6000 glue (the best glue in the world btw). I’ve also sewn little flicks just above the eyes for eye lashes.

And voila you’re done!!!  The pattern is easily adaptable, simply by changing the colour of the dress and hairstyle you can make different princess.  Check back for pattern for Cinderella and Snow White in subsequent post here






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